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Avatar for Gladiator Repipe Inc
Avatar for Gladiator Repipe Inc
8.
Gladiator Repipe Inc
8.
Gladiator Repipe Inc

5.0

(2)

5.0

(2)

  • 1 hire on Thumbtack
E L says, "Background:I have an old house that was built in the 1940s and it has additions that were built later. I noticed in the home's original bathroom that the galvanized steel pipe which connected to the sink was rusting. I contacted a couple of plumbers and the consensus was that I needed to do a partial repipe (i.e. on the oldest part of the house) and replace the galvanized steel piping with copper.When I compared James/Gladiator's estimate to the other 2 companies I noticed the following:1. I was given clear price breakdown rather than a lump sum (for repipe, sheetrock repair, water heater service and code upgrades, main water line)2. Gladiator had the highest amount of liability insurance across all categories (workman's comp, general liability, etc..)3. The inspection permit and passing the inspection was part of the estimate/job4. Gladiator was Diamond Certified (an additional point of reassurance)5. price-wise Gladiator was on par with one of the other companies (but the other company had terrible Yelp reviews), while the third company gave me a much higher price for less serviceAt this point I decided to go with Gladiator.Repipe Day:On the day of the repipe James showed up on time with four of Gladiator's plumbers, as well as his foreman. They worked from 9am to 5pm (exactly as James indicated) and completed the repipe. This included the air pressure test that helped verify that there were no leaks. They also cleaned up the house and minimized the amount of holes done to the sheetrock and plaster (much of the old part of the house has plaster...great :-( ).During the repipe I asked James if his people could also check the sewer drain lines (since they were in the crawl space). Upon checking the drain lines, they found that some of the galvanized steel drain pipes were leaking sewage (they took pictures to show me).James went over the options with me:Option 1: leave it as is (it would only get worse leading to eventual failure; sewage in the crawl space and lots of money to clean-up and fix it)Option 2: add this work to the existing repipe permit and get it done in a dayI choose option 2 since it was the better long-term approach and it was more economical (i.e. since Gladiator was already working on my house).The next day Gladiator's plumbers showed up once again and replaced the old drain lines of the house as well as santizied/cleaned the sewage areas.The inspection:The inspection process involves a "rough" inspection (while everything is opened up so the inspector can see the actual piping) and a "final" inspection (when all the holes are patched). Gladiator's office person (Cynthia) did an excellent job in scheduling the inspector, communicating to me the times of inspection, and making sure that one of Gladiator's plumbers was at the house during the inspection process. Any fixes that needed to be done were done by Gladiator's employees on the spot so both the repipe and drain line work passed both inspections (whohoo).Hole Patching:I have to say that Gladiator's hole patching guy was AMAZING. He patched both sheetrock and plaster with great craftsmanship making the patches look seamless (in terms of texture and smoothness). I only had to do a bit of touch up paint to get the areas back to original shape.Conclusion:Fixing an old home sucks, especially when it comes to copper repiping and sewer drain line replacment. James Baily made the process smooth and predictable. I judge a project on 3 levels: quality of work, amount of time it takes, and cost. Gladiator REPIPE Inc. checked all the boxes:1. Excellent quality of work2. Work done in a day per plan (this one is so rare...I've had so many other companies and contractors tell me that something will take a day and it ends up taking two weeks)3. Cost on par with other estimatesI am very happy with James and Gladiator and will happily recommend them to anyone that needs repipe and drain line replacement."See more

$59/on-site estimate

(waived if hired)

$59/on-site estimate

(waived if hired)

Q & A

Answers to commonly asked questions from the experts on Thumbtack.

How do I choose the best professional to refinish my tub?

Contact a few professionals who display a wealth of experience in bathtub refinishing. In particular, look for pros who:

  • Have generally positive reviews for bathtub refinishing.

  • Can provide a portfolio to illustrate successful refinishing jobs.

  • Can provide references from past clients.

  • Display broad knowledge of different types of bathtubs and finishing materials.

Once you’ve selected a few professionals with the right experience, do the following:

  • Make sure that they’re properly licensed for the job (if required in your area).

  • Verify that they’re insured so that you are protected against damages or accidents that may occur during the refinishing process.

  • Ask for estimates with lots of details about materials, labor and costs. Be wary of estimates that seem too high or too low compared to others.

How much does it cost to refinish a bathtub?

The national average cost to refinish or reglaze a bathtub is approximately $450,* according to Thumbtack data. However, average costs tend to range anywhere from around $360 to $650.* 

Labor is usually the largest variable when it comes to costs. The rest of the cost will typically come down to the difficulty of the job. Most bathtub refinishers can complete a basic refinishing job in a single day. However, the following factors can lengthen the amount of time needed (which can raise labor costs):

  • Tubs that need a lot of patching or crack repair prior to applying the finish.

  • Tubs with a severely damaged finish that will require extra sandblasting to prepare them prior to refinishing.

  • Bathrooms that are small or cramped, which make it harder to use sandblasting or spray equipment.

  • Bathrooms without windows, which make it more difficult to set up a ventilation system.

When selecting professionals for this job, ask for several quotes with plenty of detail on both materials and labor hours needed.

*Data on file at Thumbtack. For a personalized cost estimate, request a quote from a professional.

What goes into refinishing and reglazing a bathtub? How long does it take?

The bathtub refinishing process should be relatively straightforward:

  • Typically, the professional will start by roughening the tub’s surface using sandpaper, sandblasting equipment or acid to etch the original finish.

  • Next, they’ll patch any chips or cracks in the tub.

  • Finally, they’ll reglaze using a primer and an appropriate finish for your tub.

Tip: It’s wise to plan this job for a time when you can avoid using the tub for a few days. Most bathtub refinishes will take two days from start to finish, but it can take up to four days for particularly complex jobs or for finishes that require longer curing times.

While professionals can usually work through the refinishing process in a single day, in most cases, the tub will need to cure for 24 hours before you use it. However, be aware that some finishes may require a 72-hour curing time.

What types of tubs can be refinished?

Many types of bathtubs can be refinished, including:

  • Cast iron

  • Fiberglass

  • Porcelain

  • Acrylic

  • Steel

During the refinishing process, professionals can use a variety of different techniques or materials like urethane coatings, epoxy coatings, enamel, spray glaze or porcelain acrylic-bond reglazing, among others. Typically, they’ll remove or roughen the existing finish, patch any chips or cracks and then prime and apply the new finish. 

When it comes to bonding, different materials have different properties — and a professional can help you choose the finish that will work best and last longest for your tub.

Is it worth it to refinish a bathtub, or should I replace it instead?

Deciding whether to refinish or replace your tub can be difficult. While you should always consult with a professional on whether your bathtub needs to be replaced, here are some quick guidelines to help you decide which option may be best for you: 

Replacing a tub is often a good idea if it has major structural issues. If it’s damaged beyond repair, a professional might recommend replacing it. You might also want to install a brand-new tub to enhance your bath experience. Just keep in mind that you’ll need to remove your old tub, and you may need to prepare to make changes in your plumbing, tile and/or flooring.

Refinishing (or “resurfacing”) your bathtub usually costs less than installing a new one, and it requires only a few hours to make it look like new. Consider refinishing if you just want to hide ugly discoloration, cracks or chip marks on your tub and make it more durable. 

What's the difference between bathtub refinishing, reglazing and resurfacing?

Bathtub “resurfacing” is also often used interchangeably with “refinishing.” However, some may consider resurfacing to be a more in-depth, comprehensive restoration and repair process than simply refinishing. Always check with your pro to see if they consider them to be two different services.

Reglazing is the last step of the refinishing process when your pro will apply the new finish. It is not typically a separate project. The roughening and repair steps are necessary prior to reglazing to ensure that the new finish adheres properly. So in order to reglaze your tub, you basically need to refinish it.

However, some people may use “reglazing” and “refinishing” interchangeably, so it’s important to double-check with your pro. 

Should I reglaze or refinish my bathtub on my own, or should I hire a pro?

If you're an experienced DIY-er, you might find reglazing your tub a manageable project. It's a time-consuming process that requires multiple steps, but DIY kits and instructional videos are widely available. 

Perhaps the most important point to consider is that a professionally reglazed tub can last for 10 to 20 years, while the longevity of a DIY job will depend on many factors, including the skill level of the DIY-er, and may need to be redone sooner. Consider the following points before making a decision:

Reasons to hire a professional:

  • It’s usually a quicker turnaround time

  • You’ll see a higher quality and smoother finish

  • You’ll likely have more colors to choose from

Reasons to DIY:

  • It’s cheaper

  • You have more control of the process

  • You don’t have to deal with professionals in your house

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